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Grenada

Small Country ~ Big Sadness

February 28, 2020 by Candi Licence Leave a Comment

Our gorgeous Grand Anse beach and the beautiful mountains of Grenada

 

Grenada has approximately 110,000 residents, so it’s easy to feel like you know almost everyone.  100,000 sounds like a large number, but when you consider a lot of cities in the US have that many people (or more), it puts things into perspective.

The idea of 6 degrees of separation says that all people are six, or fewer, social connections away from each other.  I think it’s probably 3 degrees of separation here.  It’s a small country, people live in a concentrated area (over 80% of the island is still undeveloped land), and many people are related.

It’s fun to feel so embedded in the community, but it also means that events feel personal.  When someone dies, you might know the person, their family, or at least their close friends.

Grenada has had the shock of four prominent deaths in the past month.

Denis Noel

Denis Noel, relaxing at his magnificent Balthazar Estate in the rainforest.

Denis Noel was an island icon.  Denis studied agriculture in college and worked in the Ministry of Agriculture for 22 years.  He also held a variety of government positions, including Minister of Foreign Affairs, Junior Minister of Agriculture, and Junior Minister of Communications and Works.  He might be best known for managing his family’s famous estate, Balthazar, where he developed a pain relief product called NUT-MED, which harnessed the therapeutic powers of nutmeg into a spray and crème.

Located in Grenada’s rainforest, Balthazar Estate is Grenada’s largest commercial grower of cut flowers. In addition to the many varieties of Gingers and Heliconia’s traditionally grown here, he and his staff hybridized exciting new varieties.  Denis was part of the Grenadian team that exhibits at the famed Chelsea Garden Show in London each May.  He was instrumental in providing the bulk of the magnificent flowers, year after year, that helped Grenada win 15 Gold Medals in 21 years of competition.

Michael and I had the privilege to meet Denis and receive a private tour with him just three weeks before his death. In the 2 hours we spent together, walking his fields of flowers, our biggest impression was this was a man of grace and humility.  He clearly loved his ancestral estate. I had phoned him saying that I was writing about Grenada’s participation in Chelsea and asked if we could have a tour.  He graciously invited us to come the next day. I didn’t find out until after we parted that he was retired and no longer did tours.  I’m humbled and grateful that I was able to meet this gentle man and gentleman.

Andre Cherman

Andre Cherman, the friendly owner of Coyaba Beach Resort. Photo credit – Barnacle News

Andre Cherman was a shareholder, Chairman of the Board, and served as Managing Director of Coyaba Beach Resort for the 32 years it’s been in business. Coyaba is a top-rated hotel located right on Grenada’s magnificent Grand Anse Beach.

Through his guidance, this family-owned beach resort established itself as a favorite for both guests and staff. He was also a leader in community outreach, supporting charities, aiding local schools, and sponsoring the New Dimension steel band.

I did not know him personally, but he was a leader in the hotelier industry and the community.

Accolades and condolences have been pouring in from all over the world, citing his warmth, commitment, and graciousness. His family will continue his legacy, but he will be deeply missed.

I’m sorry that I never had the opportunity to meet him.

Lydia Whiteman

The sweet and wonderful Lydia Whiteman

Our good friend, Lydia Whiteman, recently passed away from cancer.  Michael and I met Lydia and her husband, Joslyn, somewhere around 1990 when we were looking for property to purchase in the parish of St. David’s.  Joslyn was the government Minister responsible for St. David’s. Together, as a couple, they continuously traveled throughout the parish to meet with families, listen to their concerns and worked tirelessly to help wherever they could – both professionally and personally.

I was struck that no matter where we went, everyone would come and greet Lydia and Joslyn. In return, Lydia and Joslyn would ask after the person’s children, parents, and neighbors.  The interactions weren’t casual. It wasn’t ‘How is your mom’, but ‘How is Margaret’s arthritis doing this week?  Did the NUT-MED help?  Is there anything else we can do?’  ‘How is your son’s reading going?  I heard from his teacher that he was making good progress.’ ‘Were you able to get your roof repaired?’ They knew every person, understood their struggles, and clearly cared about them.

Lydia was always cooking big pots of food to distribute to whatever community they were visiting. Oil down, Goat Curry, Rice & Peas, etc. Has your government representative (or their spouse!) ever done anything like this for you?

My strongest memory of Lydia is that she always wore her pearl necklace.  It didn’t matter if she dressed up for a fancy event or she dressed casually while walking the streets of one of the villages visiting with families.  This memory, more than anything else, epitomized her strength, grace, and compassion.  My heart is heavy from her death.

Sir Royston Hopkin

Sir Royston Hopkin, the face of Spice Island Beach Resort

Sir Royston Hopkin passed away due to complications from a medical procedure he had a few weeks back.  Sir Royston was the owner and face of Spice Island Beach Resort, one of the leading hotels in the world. He was a recognized champion of the Grenadian people, and he supported a wide variety of individuals, charities, and provided scholarships for needy children.

Sir Royston enjoyed honors and awards from all over the world. Royston became a “Sir” in 2004 when Queen Elizabeth knighted him for his outstanding contributions to the tourism industry in Grenada and the Caribbean. He received three Lifetime Achievement Awards – from the Caribbean Hotel & Tourism Association, the Caribbean Tourism Organization, and the Caribbean Hotel and Resort Investment Summit in Miami. Most of us will never receive even one Lifetime Achievement Award.

Under his leadership, the resort has also consistently won a tremendous number of awards. These include the AAA five Diamond Award, (Spice Island is the only Caribbean owned 5-star hotel to make the cut), and, for the 7th year, the Six Star Diamond Award by the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences. In 2019, the resort ranked fourth out of 25 luxury Caribbean hotels in the TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice Awards.  US News & World Report recognized Spice Island as one of the “Best All-Inclusive Resorts in the Caribbean”.

Royston was an ambassador for ‘Spice’ as well as Grenada. He was always walking the resort, talking to staff and visitors to be sure the highest quality of service was delivered.  He was always gracious and often invited guests to his home for cocktails.

I was continually impressed with the quality of my interactions with his staff.  They were always friendly, warm, and highly professional.  One time a friend and I stopped by the beach bar for a drink. I had my dog with me, and he was sitting next to me.  A server came over, welcomed us warmly, and complimented my pooch. Then, ever so gently, she asked if we would mind moving to another table that had a one-foot high divider separating the bar from the beach.  She explained that our dog shouldn’t be in the bar area. However, if we sat there with him on the other side of the divider, he would still see us, feel like he was with us, I could easily touch him, and there would be no intrusion for the other guests.  She so skillfully and professionally managed the situation that I remember it years later as unparalleled service.  I know this high level of service emanated from Sir Royston’s vision of a stellar experience.

I had to be told three times that Sir Royston passed away. I was so shocked.  His death is an enormous loss to his family and friends, staff and guests, Grenada and the larger Caribbean.

Life goes on. But for many Grenadians and me, we have lost several prominent individuals that we genuinely cared about, and we are grieving. Separately and together, they demonstrated the warmth, caring, and integrity of the Grenadian people. They were role models, leaders in their fields, and friends to all. Rest in peace, my friends.

 

Filed Under: Expat life, Grenada, Travel Tagged With: expat life, Grenada

Planting Seeds and Creating Sparks ~ Art and Love in Grenada

May 22, 2019 by Candi Licence 7 Comments

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Roxi painted this village scene of Mount Moritz when she lived in Grenada in the 1990s

As Hurricane Ivan tore through Grenada in 2004 destroying over 90% of the island’s infrastructure, Roxi Hermsen worried about her friends.  She and her husband had lived in Grenada for a year in the late ‘90s in the Mount Moritz area, just north of the capital city, St. Georges.  They fell in love with Grenada and had quickly become part of the local community.  She impatiently waited for word about their former neighbors.  Finally, word got through – no deaths in the village, but massive destruction.  Roxi started painting and planning.

An Artist by trade, Roxi sent paintings to Byron Campbell to sell and raise funds to replace the damaged water system at Mount Moritz Anglican school.  She also wanted to send seeds to her friend Ashton Goddard, a local farmer, so he could begin replanting his garden and have food to eat and sell.  Little did she know that her idea would transform into a massive relief project.

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Work in Progress – Portrait of Ashton Goddard. Artist Rebecca Shepherd

Roxi went to her local Canadian seed distributor, Pacific North West Seeds, to buy some seeds for Ashton.  The owner generously gave her all his leftover seeds.  It was the end of the season when stores return their unsold seed.  Seeds can’t be resold the following year, so the owner had a glut of unsalable seeds, and Grenada had an immediate, desperate need.  Roxi left with boxes, and boxes, and boxes of seeds.  Her next step was to organize seed packing parties.

Roxi hosted parties, inviting friends to pack a variety of vegetable seeds into Ziploc bags that could easily be distributed to different families throughout Grenada. Now she had to figure out a way to get them from her small hometown in western Canada to Grenada.

Roxi contacted the Spice Isle Relief Organization in Toronto, a group that was coordinating hurricane relief supplies to be shipped to Grenada.  The former Council General to Grenada happened to be in the office when she called. He asked her where she had lived and, of course, knew her former neighbors Tanty Deli and Uncle Everest and said they were ok.  He was also able to tell her more information about her other friends in Mt. Moritz. He paved the way for the seeds to get through Customs and the Agricultural inspection without delay or charges.

Roxi then contacted WestJet Airlines. The owner, Clive Beddoe, agreed to fly the seeds to Toronto at no charge if Roxi could get the seeds to the Kelowna airport in British Columbia. Caesar’s Trucking stepped up and trucked the seeds to Kelowna. It took two WestJet flights to get all the seeds to Toronto.

Once in Toronto, the seeds would ship via container to Grenada.  Spice Isle Relief added buckets, shovels, and other farming supplies to the shipment so families would have everything they needed to replant. Roxi’s cousins added their support by sending large plastic containers filled with medical supplies, water purification tablets, baby formula, diapers, school supplies, etc.  Everyone was willing to pitch in and help.

While this was happening, Roxi contacted her friends in Grenada to let them know about the seed project. They used their farmers’ network to inform the farmers that relief was coming and to start cleaning up and preparing everyone’s gardens to receive the seeds.

The Mt. Moritz community pulled together after the hurricane to make sure everyone in their community was taken care of.  They started by making sure all the elderly people had shelter, then they began pooling food and supplies and distributing them based on the size of the family.  Last, they made sure everyone’s garden space was prepared for the seeds to arrive. It’s heartening to see how Grenadians pull together in their tight-knit communities and support each other.

Roxi had always dreamed about coming back to Grenada.  In 2017, she met a fellow Artist, Rebecca Shepherd, at an elementary school in Canada. Artists were showcasing different kinds of art so kids could see the many ways art can be expressed and have a chance to try things out.  They became friends and then collaborators. As they were co-painting a large canvas, a seed appeared in it, and Roxi spoke about her dream to return to Grenada. Rebecca said, “I’ll go with you.” In January 2018, they hatched a plan to raise funds by selling their artwork. They had a show in Kelowna, Canada that filled a 70-foot wall at Buvez Wine and Art Bar.   By August, they had saved enough money for the airfare, and they purchased their plane tickets.

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Rebecca and Roxi at their house in Mount Moritz – where I interviewed them for this blog post

They were now committed. Roxi and Rebecca created an art workshop for 16 women to raise additional funds for lodging and food.  The local Arts Council in Enderby, graciously sponsored the workshop.  The Enderby and District Arts Council paid for the room and paint supplies and provided refreshments. The workshop proceeds covered their rent and paint for the murals while they were in Grenada.  Finally, it was time to return to Grenada.

Roxi and Rebecca arrived in Grenada on February 5th and, once again, found a home in Mt. Moritz.  It was only one house away from where Roxi had stayed the first time she lived in Grenada.  They immediately started painting so they could have an exhibition at Aquarium, a favorite beach restaurant and place Roxi had shown her paintings 22 years ago.

This is a sample of five the paintings that were for sale at Aquarium Restaurant

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At the same time, Roxi and Rebecca created a large mural in a private home, something they wish to do more of, either in private or public spaces.  They planned to paint three small murals and one large mural at the Mount Moritz Anglican Elementary School to brighten up the school.   They started designing the murals and working with the school staff to determine where the art would be installed.

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One of the beautiful murals at The Mount Moritz Anglican School

Next, it was time to begin painting the murals. They painted during the school day, and the kids were excited to see the art emerge before their eyes. Roxi said it was pretty chaotic and also lots of fun with children exclaiming each time a new ‘creature’ appeared. As Roxi and Rebecca painted a reef with fish, octopus, crab, and shells, the kids cheered them on and made suggestions like adding a shark to the mural. Roxi said it was like painting on demand. The hardest part may have been keeping the kids from touching the murals until they were dry.  The refrain “Is it dry yet?” was heard over and over.

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Another mural with a specially requested shark.  Is it dry yet?

Picking out the future Artists was easy.  While all the children were engaged watching Roxi and Rebecca paint, a few Artists at heart sat completely still, mesmerized at the magic appearing before their eyes.  One boy sat with a serious expression on his face.  Finally, he couldn’t stand it anymore and grabbed the paintbrush from Roxi’s hand and started placing dots on the mural.

Roxi and Rebecca just laughed.  They understood his artistic desire.  They said they were planting seeds with this project and creating sparks of creativity that might take years to develop and bloom.  Roxi has taught Art, Drama, and Media in Canada. One of her former students has become a respected movie producer, another has won an Academy Award for scenic painting, and a third student has opened a successful Dinner Theatre.  I wonder where this boy’s passion and talent will take him in life.

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A third mural combining art with math

The teachers were also happy and excited about the project.  Schools in Grenada, tend to be pretty sterile environments.  There is barely money for necessary supplies.  Parents buy all the school books and are often asked to contribute basic supplies like copy paper, tissues, and toilet paper.  Funds for ‘decorations,’ even educational ones, are nonexistent.  Everyone was thrilled with the colorful upgrade to the school walls.

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The magnificent mural highlighting the school seal surrounded by Ginger Lilies

The highlight of the murals was a large painting of ginger plants surrounding the school seal.  Each ‘flower’ was a handprint of an individual child.  Roxi and Rebecca rolled each of the children’s hands in red and white paint and had them stamp their handprint at the top of a leaf. The principal and teachers got involved and added their handprints to the masterpiece as well.  The finished mural was both beautiful and touching.  Everyone was uplifted by the new art and was proud to have their personal contribution as part of the mural.

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A close up so you can see the individual handprints that became the Ginger Lily flowers

After the murals were completed, Roxi and Rebecca realized there was a good bit of paint left over and had the idea to paint the school’s playground space.  The playground was basically a large, empty concrete space. During recess, the children just ran around unfocused, they had no way to direct their energy. Roxi and Rebecca wanted to create a virtual playground with hopscotch, jumping jacks, square ball, race tracks, and circuit circles with run here/hop there sections. Roxi engaged her friends in the community to help paint the playground to create local ownership of the project, and then the community would take over the ongoing maintenance of the playground.

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Roxi transforming the bland concrete recess space into a virtual playground

The next Sunday afternoon, members of the community turned out to paint the virtual playground.  Roxi was the mastermind and determined where each painting/play area would be placed.  I was impressed with how she could sketch out the designs using a long stick with a large piece of chalk taped to the end.  Rebecca was the detail Artist, defining all the outlines, painting numbers, and then adding splashes of color and shapes to the completed works.  The community members filled in the blocks of color and, as they got more confident, they added lines and decorations like dots and stars.  It was a collaboration of ideas that meshed seamlessly.

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Rebecca adding numbers to the hopscotch board

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Now the students had fun ways to interact.
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This was definitely a group collaboration and effort.
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Creating colorful stairs to play upon.
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Everyone worked hard and had a great time.
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Adding the finishing touches
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And of course, there had to be a heart – One Family, One Love – Grenada’s mantra

                                       

The Transformation was Magical

As the afternoon wore on, a few children patiently watched the playground come to life.  Later, they became the first ones to try out each play area, running, hopping, and skipping through the games. They had either huge smiles or determined faces as they tried their best to jump the farthest or run the fastest.

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Run on the Spot!

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If the footprint fits, JUMP!

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Roxi and a village girl playing mirror me.
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Look at that smile!
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Posing in the heart.

One of the community members who helped paint the playground, Kwabena Amen, is an instructor at Marryshow Community College (MCC).  He was impressed by the teamwork, the enthusiasm of the school staff, and the joy in the children’s eyes. He plans to encourage his MCC students to help other communities around the island to recreate murals and virtual playgrounds in other elementary schools.

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Everyone joined in the fun, trying out the new playground

As Roxi and Rebecca’s visit came to an end, many townspeople stopped them on the street and thanked them for their gift of art.

I know that Roxi and Rebecca are already dreaming about their next trip.  I can’t wait to see what they plan to do when they make their way home again to Grenada.

Photo credit: Photos without the CandiandMichaelontheMove.com logo are courtesy of Roxi and Rebecca.

Artists comments:

Roxi and Rebecca wish to thank those who helped them along the way, Byron Campbell, Ashton Goddard, Kwabena Amen, Pip Stokes, Gylfi Hilmisson, Raymond and Lady C.

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    Rebecca, Roxi, and the community members who painted the virtual playground.               (Left to right – Ashton, Rebecca, Roxi, Lady C, Kwabena, Raymond, Gilfi, and Pip)

Pip and Gylfi run Attach a Leg Grenada, a non-profit organization which provides a cost-efficient and high-quality service for amputees.  Through serendipity, they met Roxi and realized they owned one of her paintings that she created 22 years ago.  Both Roxi and Rebecca donated paintings to Attach a Leg, to help in their fundraising efforts for their worthy cause.

Thank you to Rachel Forte at Mt. Moritz Anglican School for being open to art and allowing Roxi and Rebecca to show the community how art can make a positive change with color and uplifting imagery.

If you might be interested in a mural, please contact Roxi and Rebecca directly.  Their websites are listed below.

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This is the mural Roxi and Rebecca painted at Byron Campbell’s house.

To see more of Roxi and Rebecca’s artwork, check out these websites:

www.RoxiArtwork.ca

www.rebeccas-art-studio.com

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The Stairway to Heaven and to the new virtual playground

 

 

Filed Under: Art, Expat life, Grenada, Travel Tagged With: Art, Grenada, Hurricane Ivan, Mount Moritz, Mural, Rebecca-art-studio, RoxiArtwork

Coming Home ~ Sweet, Sweet Home ~ First Impressions

March 6, 2017 by Candi Licence Leave a Comment

We were on the road for 4 and a half months. This was a different trip for us filled with Family, Friends and Fun AND a lot of moving around. We headed to the US in June for Michael’s Goddaughter’s wedding in CT and then migrated to Vermont, Maine and then onto Toronto for a Jazz weekend and then Caribana (Toronto’s Carnival). From there, Michael jagged back to the Caribbean to shoot Grenada’s Carnival while I spent time with his family at Big Moose and, together again, we headed to Cape Cod to catch the last taste of a New England summer, then off Italy for 3 weeks, more visiting and now we are back in Grenada. Lots of stories, insights and reflections which will be shared in other posts, but for now ~ WE ARE HOME!

Sunrise from our patio

Day 1 ~ Sitting on the patio, gazing at the horizon and writing for the first time in a long time. I’ve missed blogging but was too busy ‘seeing’ to be to be able really write in earnest – time to begin again.

Below is a random listing of my first impressions after being gone so long and seeing the house mostly complete for the first time ….

~ The welcoming feeling of coming home

~ Sunday ~ A day of rest and quiet ~ a perfect way to settle back in

~ Stunning views of verdant green climbing up the hills and mountains

~ Palm trees swaying and dancing in the breeze

~ Sounds of water land boat motors running – daily life happening

~ Hot 90’s and a soft breeze, enhanced by a lazy fan twirling above

~ Freshly squeezed fruit juices in the refrigerator. Plus freshly baked coconut bread and sweet bananas

~ Michael’s hammock is already up!

~ Mick settling right in, in his hammock bed, getting treats

~ Everyone is relaxed

~ Our pool. Glistening, clear water, wiggling waves from the breeze ~ a little ‘cold’ !

(86 degrees if you believe the thermometer. Need to turn on the solar heater. HA!)

~ Micks’ first dip in the pool, then splat! as he runs on the newly waxed living room floor – splayed out and wondering, What just happened?

~ A clean, neat, organized house. Thanks to –

Nadica – my Grenadian best friend and our housekeeper

Sheila – a wonderful new friend and our groundskeeper

Antonio – our terrific general contractor

Kim – our fabulous house manager and ‘go to’ person when we are off island

~ Thank you all for taking such great care of us ~

Thinking about people – Wanting to reach out and make contact

~ Karen, Boots and Ruby – our favorite restauranteers

~ Spencer and Ovis – our neighbors across the street

~ Rain – good friend and chef extraordinaire

~ Seeing our “completed” house for the first time. There was still a lot of work to be completed when we left Grenada in June. Michael had a sneak peek when he was back in August but it is all new to me.

~ Greeting the house like an old friend who has new secrets to share – new spaces, finishes completed

~ Discoveries – We shipped 5 barrels of ‘stuff’. Items tucked everywhere – waiting for their new homes

~ Places to sit! Lots of new cushions ~ a whole other story

~ A new big office – so large I just want to dance in it. A space of my own. Finally!

~ Maria’s glass waterfall displayed on the floor of the living room – looking magnificent and wrong on the floor instead of flowing down the patio wall

~ Sleeping in my own bed ~ delicious and heavenly!

~ One of our favorite restaurants, La Boulangerie, is closed. So much disappointment…. Another failed business and if rumors are true – the owner left the island without paying the workers or back rent. Heartbreaking all the way around.

~ Carib Sushi – Our favorite sushi restaurant ~ just the same – same wait staff, happy to have us back and the wonderful Sushi chef who likes me because I like him. Feeling welcomed and spoiled.

~ Thinking about priorities and contemplating what to do first? How to design my life now that the house is basically complete? What DO I want to do when I grow up?

Coming home ~ celebrating

Coming home ~ a feeling of endless time

Coming home ~ Feeling settled – home, sweet, sweet home.

Filed Under: Expat life, Grenada, The Arches Tagged With: Grenada, The Arches

One Roof On, Another Roof Off ~ And Other Changes

March 11, 2016 by Candi Licence

Finally, we are ready to finish the living room roof. YEAH!

We put up scored plywood for the ceiling (so it looks like individual boards) and then a layer of aluminum metal roofing is being applied. The metal cleared customs a week ago Tuesday so, fingers crossed, we’ll have a finished roof by the end of the week.

Our new ceiling.
Our new ceiling. Here, you can easily see how much higher the walls are and the roof goes up to as peak from there. We now get plenty of wind in the living room so this has been a huge success.

Our regular team put on the wooden ceiling and they are doing all the work to prep the roof for the metal that will go on top. The company that is providing the metal will also provide the team to attach it to the roof. This is great for two reasons – they have the most experience installing these roofs and will guarantee the workmanship AND it means our regular team can keep moving their parts of the project forward.

Ecstatic Note: We had a large rainstorm recently (the first and only one since the end of December) and the only evidence was a small puddle in the hall where the roof and wall haven’t been sealed yet – the living room floor was DRY!

Our custom made louver for the front of the house was delivered and it looks great. I love the dark mahogany finish.

Our new Louver which will be placed in the front of the house above the Arched doors.
Our new Louver which will be placed in the front of the house above the Arched doors.

It was quite the experience watching it get installed.

Lifting the louver into place was a simultaneous combination of pulling and pushing.
Lifting the huge louver into place was a simultaneous combination of pulling and pushing.

One man was on the outside of the building on a scaffolding, three men were on the inside on a different scaffolding and two men were on the ground. Thick, long pieces of canvas were tied to the louver and the other ends were thrown up to the three men. They pulled the canvas “ropes” tight and then they pulled up while the men on the ground lifted the louver as high as they could. Then, with poles, the louver was pushed up so the bottom sat on the scaffolding. With the great teamwork, this heavy louver was set into place in about 5 minutes. Then the louver was leveled and held in position while it was screwed into the concrete. Ten minutes later, it looked like it had always been there.

View from the courtyard.
View from the courtyard.
View from the inside.
View from the inside. The living room is so big, that the louver almost looks small. That is unless you compare it to the size of the men lifting it in the picture above!

Now, our team is split.  Some workers are focusing on prepping the roof for the metal and the rest are focusing on the patio area where we are removing part of a wall to square off the space. We are also completely removing the patio roof and supporting structure so we can put up a new roof that will be mostly flat with a minimal pitch for drainage, removing all but one floor post and then replacing the stationary glass with windows that will open. If you remember back to the start of this project, the two primary goals were –

  1. Raise the living room roof up so we’d have great airflow to cool the room and
  2. Reconfigure the back patio to make more usable outside living space (by bumping out part of the side wall to make the room rectangular) and to change out the funky triangle, fixed glass with larger windows that open to allow for controlled air flow.

The back of our house faces a large bay so we can get a tremendous amount of wind if the prevailing wind is blowing, but it can also be very calm on some days. We are putting in tiered “walls” of awning windows.   We think awning windows will be best because we can control the angle and amount of wind that can come into the patio and we will also be able to keep the windows open during rain storms. These windows will need to be able to withstand strong winds that will be pushing against them when they are open so Michael is committed to purchasing local windows in case we need warranty replacements or repairs. It’s enticing to think about purchasing windows in the US where they will be less expensive but then we are essentially on our own if anything goes wrong. There is always the consideration of buying local verses importing from abroad for any large dollar purchase.

Here is what the patio area used to look like. Notice how the room is "bumped in".
Here is what the patio area used to look like. Notice how the room is “bumped in” about 5 feet next to the bar. We will square off the room, giving us more covered space under the new patio roof.

As soon as the windows were taken out the view really opened up. We’re trying to have as much glass as possible to retain unobstructed views but need the windows to be functional and strong enough to withstand the torque from the strong winds so no one window can be too large.

This is a similar shot after the windows were taken out. The concrete pad will be incorporated into the living space.
This is a similar shot after the windows were taken out. The concrete pad will be incorporated into the living space. The new windows will give us a much bigger view.

We are also cutting down the back wall, facing the view, to about 16 inches. We will continue to have a rail at waist height and will run wire cables between the wall and rail for safety. I can’t wait to see this part completed and to have a fairly unobstructed view to the water.

These are the old supports that held up the patio roof. The new roof will only have one support.
These are the supports that held up the old patio roof. The new roof will only have one free standing support.
And this is how the railing area looked. We're cutting down the peaks and will have cables run between the upright posts.
And this is how the railing area looked. We’re cutting down the peaks and will have cables running between the upright posts.

By Friday, the roof should be completed and the living room can start being prepped for painting – YAHOO!

 

 

 

Filed Under: Expat life, Grenada, Renovations, The Arches, Travel Tagged With: construction, Grenada, rennovation, The Arches

The Best of Grenada Sailing Week ~ The Workboat Regatta

February 26, 2016 by Candi Licence 1 Comment

A beautiful day for sailing
A “picture perfect”, beautiful day for sailing – glorious sun, good wind and definitely a party atmosphere on the beach as visitors and locals root for their favorite boats.

Crystal clear, turquoise blue water lapping onto 2+ miles of white sand beach, makeshift food stalls with mouth watering smells, vendors selling luscious local food and drinks, other stalls selling souvenirs and local crafts, music blaring from a large sound stage, lots of locals and tourists mingling and laughing while about 40 workboats rest on the sand and get prepped for the intense competition to determine which sailing village will hold the honor of winning the 2016 Sailing Festival ~ known locally as the Workboat Regatta.

The work boats are rigged and line the beach waiting to be called for their village race. there is tremendous competition between the fishing villages for the distinction of Champion of Champions.
The work boats are rigged and line the beach, waiting to be called for their village race. There is tremendous competition between the fishing villages for the distinction of 2016 Champion of Champions.

The Grenada Sailing Week is bigger than this and is actually a week-long event that attracts sailors from all over the world to race against each other in a variety of races and boat classes, each day ending with a party.  There are 5 classes of yachts that race and each yacht races multiple times.  Results of each race are tallied up to determine the overall winners.  Of course, there is plenty of fun, food and partying going on during the races and at the evening parties.  It’s thrilling to see these sleek, expensive yachts slicing through the waves but, I have to admit, my heart is with the workboats.

These work boats are owned by the local fishermen and they go out daily to catch "the fish of the day" for the stores, restaurants, lucky residents and savvy visitors.
These work boats are owned by the local fishermen and they go out daily to catch “the fish of the day”. Quite different than the huge commercial ships that ply the oceans. I love the creative names lovingly painted on each boat. (The other side says No Retreat”)

Workboats are the traditional 16 to 17 foot wooden boats that the local fishermen use on a daily basis to bring in the “catch of the day” to restaurants, stores, lucky residents and savvy visitors.  They are powered by motors and do not have sails.  Certain seaside villages in Grenada – Gouyave, Woburn, Grand Mal and Sauteurs are well known for their fishing culture and there is a friendly, but rigorous, rivalry between them each year to claim the prize of fastest boat and best sailors.  The races also attract fishermen from Carriacou and Petit Martinique, Grenada’s sister islands, and sailors from the Grenadine Islands like Bequia and Mayreau.  For the day of the races, bamboo masts are cut and rigged onto the boats in a wide variety of ways ~ almost always including a least some duct tape!

This is a great shot showing the condition of the average work boat and their makeshift masts. This is a very typical set up with bamboo booms.
This is a great shot showing the condition of the average work boat and their makeshift masts jury rigged for sailing in this annual race. This is a very typical set up with bamboo booms.

We’ve been coming to the Workboat races for many years and the boats and rigging have gotten much more professional and now specialty boats are being built specifically for the final race of the regatta with traditional masts and bigger, better sails.  In the early days, more than half the fun was watching the sailors collaborate (argue) and try to figure out how to jury rig their boats with the bamboo masts and sails and get them to stay upright.  Now, it’s more organized and some of the charm and the adventure of rigging the boats from scratch is gone.  But the rivalry, excitement, laughing and fun is still there in full measure.  It is a great 2 day event.  Plus, now we know local fishermen and root for specific boats, as they race each other for the final trophies.

Here, sailors are prepping to sail against each other in acommunity (or village) competition. Thye have pulled and pushed their boats into the surf and are trying to hold them in place until the horn blares, starting the race. Once they hear it, they run pushing their boats into the waves, jumping in at the lasdt minute. The last guy will be almost neck deep in the water when he needs to pull himself up and in.
Here, sailors all from the same village are prepping to sail against each other in a community competition to determine the team that will represent the village in the cross community competition. They have pulled and pushed their boats into the surf and are trying to hold them in place until the horn blares, starting the race. Once they hear it, they push their boats into the waves and jump in at the last minute. The last guy will be almost neck deep in the water when he needs to pull himself up, over and in. Often there are legs flailing!

Our local fisherman, Captain Ray, had one of the boats racing for Woburn.  We get the bulk of our fish and Lobster from Captain Ray.  He doesn’t carry a phone so Michael or I need to head over to the Woburn dock around 3 o’clock to see what he has caught that day.  My favorite is Lobster which is $12XCD or $4US per pound.  He has also turned us on to wonderful crab and, on any day, may have 2-3 types of regular fish to sell, as well as lambi (or conch).

Captain Ray, leaning against his workboat, waiting for the village of Woburn to be called. Unfortunately, the Tigre will not place in the finals this year.
Captain Ray, leaning against his workboat and enjoying a rum, waiting for the village of Woburn to be called. Unfortunately, E L Tigre did not place in the finals this year.
Look at the size of this starfish!
Look at the size of this starfish!

We stayed for most of the day on Saturday to watch the races, eat the great Grenadian food and soak up some sun.  The food booths all looked great but one booth stood out.  Everything there looked fantastic and we got grilled fish, jerk chicken and oil down, Grenada’s national dish.  The food was so good, I went back to meet and compliment the chef, Rain.  I found out that she serves food at a Vendor night on Wednesdays at True Blue Bay Resort  and now we are regulars to her booth each week.  YUM!  A bonus was seeing a number of HUGE starfish when we were swimming, between races.

On Sunday, the winning workboat and village is announced.  Then there is an additional race where the specialty boats race.  Each boat is the same and each town nominates a composite, “winning” crew from all their sailors to battle it out for the best sailing team of the weekend.  We didn’t attend on Sunday this year and it’s been a trial trying to figure out who won the final trophy, Champion of Champions.  There was a lot of local press coverage leading up to the race but NOTHING after to say who won.  I checked the Sailing Festival website which again was updated almost daily until the start of the races and then …. nothing!  I checked with Captain Ray but he wasn’t sure either.  Three WEEKS later, feeling frustrated, I started scouring the internet and, way down in the search results, I found a FaceBook page for the Sailing Festival with all the results ~ Success!  Facebook, the great equalizer and disrupter of the tried and true news sources.  (I am now following this page).

Last man jumping and diving into the boat as it takes off from shore.
Last man jumping into the boat as it takes off from shore.

Here are the final results.  (The list is long but I included the entire list because the names of the boats are as colorful as the paint jobs and I thought you would enjoy them):

Community Class Races – These are the top 3 winners from each village (or island).

Carriacou

  1. Ark Royal — Skipper Vernell Phillips (Boat from Bequia)
  2. Lightning — Skipper Adolphus Forde (Boat from Mayreau)
  3. Wet — Skipper Carl Edoe

    "Wet"
    “Wet” off to a good start.

Gouyave Canoe

  1. Sonic — Skipper Israel Darangit
  2. Etieron – Skipper Carlyle Joseph
  3. Sky Red — Skipper John George

    "Sonic" leading the pack.
    “Sonic” leading the pack.

Gouyave Sloop

  1. Reborn – Skipper Kwesi Paul
  2. Endeavour — Skipper Javid George
  3. Classic — Skipper Ted Richards

    "Endeavor" rushing off the start line.
    “Endeavor” rushing off the start line.

Sauteurs

  1. Swift — Skipper Christopher Jaheir (Boat from Grand Mal)
  2. No Retreat No Surrender – Skipper Bertrand Noel
  3. Cool Runnings — Skipper Ryan Olive

    "Cool Running" getting rigged for its first race.
    “Cool Running” getting rigged for its first race with “No Retreat, No Surrender” in the background.

Woburn

  1. Trouble Again — Skipper Allan Noel
  2. LOCAL – Skipper Clinton Brathwaite
  3. Press Play — Skipper Shakeil Gibbs
    "Trouble Again" won the Woburn race.
    “Trouble Again” won the Woburn race. I love the graphic on the bow – no messing with these guys!

    Captain Ray's boat, Tigre, off to a good start.
    Just starting to heel and “looking fine”. If you think this is an overloaded boat, I assure you it is not. One holiday, we were invited to a barbeque on a popular island off shore and this size boat was so full it was only floating about 1 inch out of the water ~ and people were still kept getting on! I figured, worst case we’d sink and it was a short swim in warm water to get to the island. We arrived safe and sound, just like the locals said we would ~ AMAZING!

Match Race Finals – This is where each village picked their best sailors from all their boats and raced all using the same type of boat to showcase the best team of sailors.  There are 2 classes Junior and Senior:

National Team Sailing – Junior – Sponsored by Budget Marine
1. Team Woburn – sailing in Gybe Talk
2. Team Gouyave – sailing Mr.X

National Team Sailing – Senior – Sponsored by Carib
1. Team Sauteurs –- sailing in Tomorrow’s Worry
2. Team Gouyave –- sailing in Mr.X
3. Team Woburn – sailing in Gybe Talk

A fast start to one of the Village races. It's a miracle they don't all collide as they fight for position.
A fast start to the village of Gouyave race. It’s a miracle they don’t all collide as they fight for the lead position.

‘Champion of Champions’ Match Race Final –  The Skipper & crew from the winning boat in each of the Community Class races, using the same type of boat  to determine the ‘Champion of Champions’

Grand Winner for the 2016 Champion of Champions:

"Swift" the winning community boat AND the sailing team that won the 2016 Champions of Champions racing all the other winning villages in competition boats.
“Swift” the winning community boat AND the sailing team that won the 2016 Champions of Champions racing all the other winning villages in competition boats.

First Place: Grand Mal — with a crew from the winning boat Swift — Skipper Christopher Jaheir.  Imagine his pride being named the best of the best and winning US$1,000 and a Yamaha outboard motor from McIntyre Brothers  This is quite the prize ~ You’ve seen these boats.  The cost of a brand new motor is way out of most Captain’s means and  $3000XCD is over a month’s wages for a well paid earner. (Compare it to a person in the US making $48K a year and winning $5K and getting a new car – a literal windfall.)

Second Place: Gouyave — winning US$500.00

Feet flailing and the last sailor "dives" into the boat.
Notice the guy hanging off the left side of the left boat – trying to keep it from capsizing as, feet flailing, the last sailor “dives” into the boat.

Third Place: Woburn — winning US$250.00

And there is always bailing .....
And there is always bailing …..

All in all, another wonderful Sailing Festival.  I can’t wait until next year.  And hopefully, we will have some friends visiting – Save the date – January 28th and 29th, 2017

BONUS:  Here is a great video of the Sailing Festival that gives a good feel for the event.  Posted on Facebook on the Sailing Festival page, created by True Blue Resort, one of the Festival sponsors …. Grenada Sailing Festival video

Filed Under: Expat life, Grenada, Travel Tagged With: Grenada, Grenada Sailing Festival, sailing, travel

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About Candi and Michael

Michael and I retired early in 2014. We stored everything we couldn't part with (art and prized possessions), sold most everything else, packed a trailer and started traveling full time. We rented a fully furnished house, in a place we always wanted to visit, lived there for 3 months and then we moved onto the next place. We stayed in Grenada for 3 months and ended up buying a house. Now we are modifying the plan a bit and we will live in Grenada and travel part-time. Read More…

Where are we now?

We are both in our home in Grenada.

 

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