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An Enchanted Sanctuary ~ Elizabethan Gardens

October 5, 2014 by Candi Licence 4 Comments

     Enrapt I sat in the quiet hour and found my soul in the heart of a flower.

A pathway enticing you to walk deeper into the garden
A pathway enticing you to walk deeper into the garden

There is so much treasure and serenity to be found in a beautiful garden. Walking along formal walkways or informal foot paths, there are beautiful discoveries to be had – left and right, up and down.  A well planned garden conceals and then reveals its delights around every corner and The Elizabethan Gardens is a stellar example of lush, quiet beauty.  Because Michael loves flowers and photography, I always look for special gardens as we travel.

These beautiful 15 foot gates originally hung at the French Embassy in Washington DC
These beautiful 15 foot gates originally hung at the French Embassy in Washington DC

The Elizabethan Gardens were originally planned to be a two acre garden site created to memorialize Sir Walter Raleigh’s English colonists of Roanoke Island whose settlement mysteriously disappeared and became known as the “Lost Colony”, 20 years before the permanent settlements of Jamestown and Plymouth Rock were established.  The North Carolina Garden Club began designing the garden in the early 1950’s and they planned to represent a colonial garden typical of the 1850’s.  With the help of the renowned landscape architectural firm, Innocenti & Webel, they were able to secure a fantastic gift of statuary including an ancient Italian fountain and pool with balustrade, wellhead, sundial, birdbaths, stone steps and benches, dating back beyond the time of Queen Elizabeth I.   As a result of this gift, the original colonial garden concept was expanded to become a more elaborate design and to incorporate a much larger parcel of land.

One of many beautiful fountains that grace the gardens
One of many beautiful fountains that grace the gardens

The designer, Richard Webel, used the statuary to “create a garden Elizabethan in spirit and style but adapted to the present. Built on ten acres of indigenous growth, the gardens are the imaginative concept of an Elizabethan pleasure garden.  Construction actually began on the historic date of June 2, 1953, the date Queen Elizabeth II was crowned Queen of England. The Gardens were formally opened August 18, 1960, on the 373rd anniversary of the birth of Virginia Dare, the first child born in America of English parentage. ”

The lovely gatehouse serves as the entranceway to the gardens
The lovely gatehouse serves as the entranceway to the gardens

The gorgeous grounds begin at the beautiful gatehouse that has a flagstone floor and hand-hewn beams.  It was constructed to resemble a 16th century orangery, a building designed to protect orange trees during the harsh European winters.  Just outside the gatehouse is a large courtyard with a formal Shakespearean herb garden.

Another view of the gatehouse that was designed to resemble an Orangerie
Another view of the gatehouse that was designed to resemble an Orangery

From here you can take a number of paths, some bricked or paved and others covered in soft pine needles, to see a magnificent statue of Queen Elizabeth the First who reined during this time; a 16th century historically accurate gazebo overlooking the sound; a statue of Virginia Dare, the first English child born in the new world; and an exquisite sunken garden with a fountain, formal plantings and many beautiful Crepe Myrtle trees.  The sunken garden is framed by hollies that are trained to form beautiful  arches that provide delightful glimpses of the garden’s interior and draw you into the garden with its large fountain.

This sculpture depicts what Virginia Dare might have looked like if she had grown to adulthood
This sculpture depicts what Virginia Dare might have looked like if she had grown to adulthood
Queen Elizabeth the first, holding a rose which was the symbol of the House of Tudor
Queen Elizabeth the first, holding a rose which was the symbol of the House of Tudor
Close up detail of Queen Elizabeth's skirt
Close up detail of Queen Elizabeth’s skirt

There is also a natural woodland garden, a formal rose garden and an extensive camellia collection that has 125 different species.  There are HUGE Magnolia trees and a majestic Live Oak tree that is over 430 years old and was alive when the first colonists landed in Roanoke.  There is also a very large, “great lawn” surrounded by trees and shrubs.  During Elizabethan times, having a great lawn was a measure of wealth – only the truly rich could have land lie idle.  All these gardens are connected by beautiful tree covered, canopied walkways that draw you further and further into the garden’s delights.

The gazebo, with a Norfolk reed thatch roof, overlooks the Roanoke Sound
The gazebo, with a Norfolk reed thatch roof, overlooks the Roanoke Sound

One very special building is an authentic reproduction of a 16th century gazebo that was built using period tools and techniques.  The hand-hewn oak posts and beams were locked together – no modern nails we used in this structure.  The gazebo is topped with an authentic thatch roof.    The Norfolk reed, brought over from Norfolk England, is considered by many thatchers as the finest roofing material and when an expert constructs with these materials, roofs are expected to last 60 to 70 years (!) as long as the ridge is replaced every 10-15 years.  The gazebo is delightful to look at and is nestled into lovely woods that open up to overlook the Roanoke Sound.

We spoke to one of the garden’s caretakers who has worked at the garden for over 12 years.  Her love of the garden was clearly evident in her conversation about the types of plants grown in the gardens and their bloom cycles.  The gardens are designed to have color all year round.  Spring and Summer have the most variety of blooms and are probably the showiest times.  Fall is beautiful because it is so mild in North Carolina and the annuals are still blooming nicely while the grasses turn lovely shades of brown.

Camellias beginning to bud
Camellias beginning to bud

Winter is special because all the Camellias, also called the Rose of Winter, are in bloom.  The staff was starting to prep for a fall harvest festival with lots of activities for kids on the Great Lawn.  This will be followed by Nights of Lights in December when the garden will be draped in twinkle lights which should be stunning.

Here is a sample of some of the plants that are in bloom now:

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Elizabethan Gardens 2014 10 02 - 0090Elizabethan Gardens 2014 10 02 - 0095

Elizabethan Gardens 2014 10 02 - 0104

 

 

 

Elizabethan Gardens 2014 10 02 - 0155 - Copy

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you are ever in this area and like gardens and plants, the Elizabethan Gardens is a must visit excursion.  (It is also located near the sweet town of Manteo – lots of lovely shops and restaurants on the Roanoke Sound.)

NOTES:

1.  Information about this garden came from the Elizabethan Gardens website. Italicized text in quotes was pasted verbatim from the site.

2.  Unfortunately, I could not find an author reference to the quote I saw at the garden on a plaque dedicated to Marie Perry Odom, Chairman of the Garden from 1974-1997  –  Enrapt I sat in the quiet hour and found my soul in the heart of a flower.  If anyone has any information, please let me know so I can update this post.   Thank you.

Filed Under: Outer Banks, Travel Tagged With: Elizabethan Gardens, nature, Outer Banks, travel

The Locals Hideaway ~ Boca Chica Beach

July 24, 2014 by Candi Licence Leave a Comment

 

A captivating view from the shoreline
A captivating view from the shoreline

Boca Chica beach is a place you would never find on your own.  I’m guessing even a lot of locals don’t know about it (or if they do, they have never been there).  Boca Chica key is a few islands up from Key West and you have to drive past it to Big Coppitt Key (mile marker 10.5) to turn onto Boca Chica Road which will lead you back, back, back to this secluded beach.  You will finally get to the end of the road and the beach will be directly on your left and the Naval Air Station will be on your right.  There are some good shade trees here, a few picnic tables and directly ahead the road is blocked off and then crumbles away.  From here you can begin walking the shoreline.

"Beach Patrol" on the rocky shore
“Beach Patrol” on the rocky shore

Looking at a map, the road appears to go all along the shoreline, right up to US1 but it’s all washed away (by Hurricane Wilma, I’ve read).  This is good news and “bad” news.  The good news is not many people come to this beach.  The “bad” news is if you want to explore this part of the island you do a lot of walking – sometimes even in the water on a pretty rocky shoreline, in some places, depending on the tide.  It’s remote enough that dogs can be off leash and they can freely romp in the water and nose around the back woods.  We’ve come here many times to give Mick the freedom he likes, Michael some good photo ops and all of us a chance to explore.

_MS42101At low tide, there are a lot of tidal pools which can be fun to examine.  There are also numerous trails that go into the woods and open onto marshes and small bodies of water.  We’ve seen some great birds here and I’m sure this is a favorite migration stopover.

The Flip Flop Memorial.  I love this, makes me smile every  time I see it
The Flip Flop Memorial. I love this, makes me smile every time I see it

Some of the really fun things you can discover are: the flip flop memorial – a portion of chain link fence with lots of discarded shoes attached; a beautiful structure of driftwood, rocks and found objects that look like a castle – with multiple rooms that have tables and beach chairs; and the shoreline path which goes right past the end of the Naval Station runway.  We spent one morning watching someone learn how to maneuver a large helicopter.  It was fascinating watching the person try to master hovering which has to be a lot harder that it looks from all the gyrations the ‘copter was going through.  I’ve got a much deeper appreciation for the skills our pilots have to master.

For most of the time we’ve been here, there has been heavy reddish seaweed coating the shoreline but this is a seasonal thing and should be gone shortly, hopefully before we leave.  You need to be watchful at all times because there are a lot of rocks, coral, trees, etc. to maneuver around.  Usually we walk until we come to the first small channel that opens onto a salt marsh but this time we brought extra shoes so we could wade across and continue along the coastline.

 A view into one of the salt marshes
A view into one of the salt marshes

I was surprised that the shallow water actually felt hot, very hot.  Last Sunday,  the beach was the busiest I’ve ever seen it – maybe 10 cars (!) and most of the way we were by ourselves.  We saw a few people photographing birds and a couple of gentlemen fishing, but mostly it was a solitary, lovely walk along the beach.

Boca Chica beach is a slice of natural heaven.

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Filed Under: Key West Tagged With: Boca Chica, Key West, nature

A Mid Summer’s Night Dream & Spectacle ~ Summer Solstice

June 25, 2014 by Candi Licence 1 Comment

Event Poster
Event Poster

The Key West Botanical Garden grounds were transformed into a fairyland for the summer solstice on June 21st, and artists from all over Key West converged to celebrate and entertain.  The event felt magical from the moment I walked in.  Many people, contributors and guests, were dressed up in fantasy costumes, with painted faces and fabulous headgear.

The Mid Summer Queen ~ she made her beautiful outfit
The Mid Summer Queen ~ she made her beautiful outfit

This is the 8th year this event has been held and people knew there was a contest for “best dressed” and really got into the spirit of the night.  There was a face painting and headdress booth right inside the door so I got my face painted and a flower headdress with beautiful ribbons hanging down so I’d fit in with the scene.  As always in Key West, dogs were welcomed and some also came in costume.  One thing I thought was particularly cool was there were a number of dogs available for adoption that were being walked through the event with coats saying adopt me.  I thought this was a great way for people to see animals who needed a home and hopefully a few went home with new families to love them.

Dancing in the moonlight ...
Dancing in the moonlight …

There were three major venues set up throughout the park.  One venue had great musicians playing.  There were more than 20 groups or individuals that played and sang non stop from 5 until 11 PM.  It was great to stroll into the area, listen to a few songs, move on and then come back and hear a totally different sound.  Many of the early groups were off to play in downtown Key West later in the evening and I got a good overview of the wonderful local music that is available here.

8th Midsummer Nights Dream 2014 06 21 - 0542

 

The second venue was an outdoor stage area where there were hula hoop demonstrations, belly dancing (both a performance and participatory dancing), Salsa dancing, poetry reading, sword dancing and an amazing fire eating demonstration.  All this was backed by a fantastic video show once it was dark which added to the fun and mystery of the dancers as the colors flowed across their bodies and their shadows danced behind them.

Ms. Lydia Firefly strutting her stuff
Ms. Lydia Firefly strutting her stuff

The last major venue was a small theatre area where snippets of Shakespeare were performed, individuals played music, more poetry was read and a youth dance troupe performed.  Interspersed between these venues were food trucks, fortune telling, sculptures, a dream board where you could write your dream in chalk, and a fantastic mural being created.

A young girl adding her magic to the giant mural
A young girl adding her magic to the giant mural

Michael showed up early to take ‘behind the scenes’ pictures of the set up and then photographed both the performers and the guests all night long.  The fact that so many guests were dressed up, in addition to the artists who were performing,  gave the evening a fun, fantastical feeling everywhere you went.  See all Michael’s personal favorite pictures from the night. (look for the slide show button on the top right to have them open and scroll.)  There were so many outstanding people and activities and I’ve only shown a fraction here.  It’s especially fun going to an event Where Michael is the photographer because he gets to meet and know the event people and as a result we get an insider’s view of what is happening, meet new people we wouldn’t ordinarily get to know and often find out interesting things or other events that are happening in the area.

the face painting was a huge hit and very well done by local artists
the face painting was a huge hit and very well done by local artists

All the artists including the face painters were donating their talents to benefit the Botanical Gardens.   The gardens are not supported by Key West or the state for funding so they look to admissions, sponsors, donations and events to support the facility.

The gardens are representative of local Florida, Cuban and Caribbean plants and so it’s not as “showy” as a garden planted with the goal of looking vibrant at all times.  It does provide an essential stopping place for migratory birds and butterflies and educates the public about native plants.  Over 200 bird species and 37 butterfly species have been sighted.  The Botanical Garden has a series of self guided tours including the “old garden” with a number of endangered species, a butterfly garden, a tropical hardwood hammock, pond and lake tour and a Cuban palm tour.  If you are coming to Key West or want to know more about the Tropical Rainforest and Botanical Garden visit their website or send for their terrific garden guide.

This was truly a magical night and if you are in Key West or close by for the next summer solstice definitely stop by for a night to remember.

Filed Under: Key West, Travel Tagged With: Key West, nature, travel

Candi and Michael’s Honey Moon

June 14, 2014 by Candi Licence 2 Comments

The honey moon rising out of the sea
The honey moon rising out of the sea

Because we are close to the Summer solstice (June 21st), the June full moon appears over the horizon as a huge butterscotch orange orb and is called the honey moon.  June traditionally was the month that most weddings occurred and the time couples spent alone after their wedding became known as their honeymoon.

Michael and I were out on the Higgs beach pier to see this beautiful moon rising on Friday, the 13th.  The horizon was cloudy so it took a while for the moon to appear but it lived up to its description and was beautiful.

_MS40166_HDR-EditAfter peaking through the clouds, it disappeared again for a short while and then triumphantly lit up the sky – smaller and whiter, but reflecting beautifully off the water.  The breeze was strong and welcoming cool as we and the other moon worshippers waited for this event that will not occur again until June 2098. (a June, full moon on Friday the 13th)

Earlier, we strolled downtown to the Pier House to support a charitable event and had lovely tapas and rum tastings.  We had some good conversations with other visitors to Key West and got a couple of great recommendations for things to do and places to eat.  The tapas were very good, rum is never bad but it was hot, hot, hot over on the western side of the island.   The sun was blazing, getting ready for its sunset performance and there was very little breeze.    It was a stark contrast to the eastern shore breezes we felt later and often have at our house.  Definitely something you want to consider if you move here or visit in the summer months.

Michael at the Pier House
Michael at the Pier House

We strolled over to Mallory Square to check out the action.  It was about 7:20 PM and there were people gathering for the sunset celebration but because it was still over an hour away, not too much performance art was going on.  It was fun seeing the ships coming in and out of the harbor.  We will definitely book a sunset cruise one evening soon.

Because we were shooting the moon rise, we left to meander back to our car.   Key West is a great walking town with lots of interesting places to see and people to watch.  And, oh yes, of course the chickens!

 

 

Filed Under: Key West, Travel Tagged With: Key West, nature, travel

Hunting for Iguanas

June 4, 2014 by Candi Licence Leave a Comment

MS3_6337When we were on the Olde Town Trolley the other day, the driver stopped near the airport and pointed out iguanas hanging out in the grass near a mangrove stream, right behind a hotel. There were brown ones as well as bright green ones. Today we’re on the hunt to see if we can capture some pictures.

MS3_6325Only saw two iguanas today. This one is a veteran pro. He posed like a model – standing still, eating grass, walking towards Michael, holding his head up and then moving it from side to side as if saying – which view do you like best?

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Check out his coloring and markings, pretty incredible.  Overall, I’d say he’s a pretty handsome dude.

We tried to get pictures of a bright green iguana also, but the one we saw was much more shy and ran into the mangrove when we were still very far away. We’ll need to go back and try again another day.

Can you imagine coming out of your hotel room to get into your car and seeing one (or more) of these guys right next to your car?

 

 

 

Filed Under: Key West, Travel Tagged With: Iguana, Key West, mangrove, nature, travel

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About Candi and Michael

Michael and I retired early in 2014. We stored everything we couldn't part with (art and prized possessions), sold most everything else, packed a trailer and started traveling full time. We rented a fully furnished house, in a place we always wanted to visit, lived there for 3 months and then we moved onto the next place. We stayed in Grenada for 3 months and ended up buying a house. Now we are modifying the plan a bit and we will live in Grenada and travel part-time. Read More…

Where are we now?

We are both in our home in Grenada.

 

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  • Candi and Michael’s Honey Moon June 14, 2014
  • Hunting for Iguanas June 4, 2014
  • Rainy Day and Café Solé June 2, 2014
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